Anonymous 01/07/25(Tue)09:32:17 | 26 comments | 3 images
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>see a vid of some fag sucking off a contax 2t he paid like a grand for
>his main points were that it has an f/2.8 lens (that you can't set to f/2.8) and that it has half stop exposure compensation for over exposing images, and the smell
>mfw when my canon sureshot I overpaid $40 for also has an f/2.8 lens and a manual ISO dial in 1/3rd stops from 50-400 (and 1,000 off on its own for some reason), meaning it literally does all the same shit for $40.
also why the fuck does it go from iso 50 to 400 in 1/3rd stops and then just randomly jump from 400 to 1,000 and not 800? did 1,000 speed film use to be popular?
pic related, technically a photo thread because its a photo I took
Anonymous 01/07/25(Tue)10:27:07 No.4397668
At least this thread isn't an ad...
Anonymous 01/07/25(Tue)10:30:06 No.4397669
>>4397664
Yeah I mean a canon AE1 is does literally everything a leica m6 does, right down to only having 1/1000 max shutter speed. Canon ae1 is like 50 bucks and an m6 is 3 grand.
Anonymous 01/07/25(Tue)15:55:11 No.4397714
>>4397664
Yeah developing black and white film at 1000 was popular. Diafine as the developer for instance.
Anonymous 01/07/25(Tue)16:17:24 No.4397724
>>4397669
It has a longer flange distance and inferior lenses because of it, just like every SLR mount that predates modern computer designed optics. The best standard focal range designs that were made then were all for shorter flange distances.

It also has softening from mirror shock and a viewfinder that can only be less bright than the attached lens
Anonymous 01/08/25(Wed)00:09:32 No.4397795
>>4397724
>It has a longer flange distance and inferior lenses because of it
Yes this is technically true, two lenses built to the exact same optical quality with one having a leica mount flange distance, twenty something mm or whatever it is, and another having FD flange distance, which I can't remember either but it would be around 50mm, the lens for the Leica mount would definitely be better quality. Buuut in the real world, the lenses aren't that close together in spec and other factors outweigh this by far. The leica would definitely have better lenses, there's no question, but whether that's because of the flange distance? I'm doubtful. The number one factor in how good a lens is it's age. And there are much newer Leica lenses than even the last FD lenses.

>It also has softening from mirror shock and a viewfinder that can only be less bright than the attached lens
Yeah, I don't know about this. Electronically controlled SLR's have a really soft shutter. Obviously it's not like a leaf-shutter rangefinder like Yashica or something, but it's still really soft. Especially if you remember to change out the foam in front of the focusing screen. Even on super slow shutter speeds I would be surprised if someone could prove this. And yeah the viewfinder is going to be darker, but in saying that the viewfinder on the SLR is sort of what killed the range finder. If you're shooting any focal length outside of the 80/50/35/28 range, the SLR will be better.
Anonymous 01/08/25(Wed)01:20:55 No.4397804
>>4397795
Retard question but how the flange distance impacts on this? Aren't also rangefinder lens in general smaller? Wouldn't that impact on Quality?
Anonymous 01/08/25(Wed)01:29:20 No.4397806
>>4397804
I'm not a lens design expert but as far as I'm aware it affecters wide-angle lenses more, because it reduces or removes the need entirely to reverse telephoto elements. Rangefinder lenses are generally smaller because of this short flange distance and also because the vast majority of them lack autofocus. You'd be surprised how much bulk autofocus adds to a lens.
Anonymous 01/17/25(Fri)01:44:49 No.4399966
Yeah kind of retarded to pay anything upwards of 100 bucks for analog point and shoots. They'll all be dead in a decade and unrepairable due to electronic components.
At least for me fully mechanical is the way to go.
Anonymous 01/17/25(Fri)01:55:24 No.4399969
>>4399966
>At least for me fully mechanical is the way to go.
I could buy like 12 electronic cameras per your 1 mechanical
Anonymous 01/17/25(Fri)02:44:08 No.4399979
>>4399966
>irreplaceable 70 year old spring breaks out of nowhere and the 7 parts that came loose with it destroy several brass gears and a cam follower. time to hunt ebay for a new one after being told by uncle joes camera repair that naptha wont fix this one.
>meanwhile, elechads: *jumps the burnt trace and replaces a standard issue capacitor* wow that was easy *realizes one of the few mechanical parts left broke during disassembly because 30 year old plastic* FUCK
Anonymous 01/17/25(Fri)03:30:25 No.4399982
>>4399979
I never got the idea that mechanical cameras will last forever. Spares are gonna be scavenged from parts cameras no matter if mechanical or electronic with IC's (fully analog electric cameras can be fixed with the Conrad parts catalogue)
Like, no nigga, you're not gonna sit there with a jeweler's file and make your own gears or build jigs to make mainsprings.

Elechads truly do just keep on winning.
Anonymous 01/21/25(Tue)12:10:07 No.4400838
>>4399979
Lol good luck trying to diagnose and fix a fully electronic camera.
There's a reason most point and shoots become waste when they die.
Meanwhile you have fully function Leica IIIs, and Kodak Vest Pocket cameras that survived WW1.
Anonymous 01/21/25(Tue)12:18:48 No.4400840
>>4400838
>Lol good luck trying to diagnose and fix a fully electronic camera.
Stay in school, based retard. All you need is a magnifying glass and a multimeter. Electronic cameras work forever as long as they don't corrode, like all the other cameras.
>Meanwhile you have fully function Leica IIIs, and Kodak Vest Pocket cameras that survived WW1.
And 900000 other broken ones that need parts scavenged or are just dead forever.

You are not investing into hipster slop, you are buying junk that's on the brink of death lol
Anonymous 01/21/25(Tue)12:36:49 No.4400848
>>4400840
As soon as you begin to get into the era of electronic cameras with firmware and complex circuitry your argument falls apart, and electronics only don't corrode if you don't take them anywhere.
Even the shitty Olympus AF-10 I have I can't get repaired because nobody wants to or knows how, yet I can still get any Leica I want serviced by multiple active technicians.
Anonymous 01/21/25(Tue)12:41:16 No.4400849
>>4400848
>continues to prove he doesn't know what the fuck he's doing
sadly you're stuck with an inferior kraut camera for pretentious snobs. it isn't even an SLR or view camera lol. imagine overpaying for yearly CLAs because of inferior german engineering. imagine not having the joy of reflex (or the ground glass). SAD!

god tier: minolta maxxum, tachihara view camera (ACTUALLY simple, ACTUALLY repairable)
shit tier: leicucks
Anonymous 01/21/25(Tue)13:11:59 No.4400856
>>4400849
Well Anon, let's continue this discussion in 50 years and see whose camera is still standing.
I'll post a thread here if this site still exists on January 21st 2075.
Anonymous 01/21/25(Tue)14:31:39 No.4400875
>>4397669
and it has lots of parts available, many people know how to do service on them, plus they usually are OK apart from maybe a cracked battery door.
The AE-1 is a criminally underrated camera.
Anonymous 01/21/25(Tue)15:32:42 No.4400886
>>4400875
There's actually an easy fix for the battery door. No top cover removal required. Working on a video to explain it.
I have an AE1, an AE1p and an A1, and yeah they're really cool cameras. They just werk. The biggest limiting factor is the 1/1000th of a second speed. Aside from that though, they have fantastic metering. If you want a camera that looks and feels like a 70s SLR but meters like an early 90s camera, its a good choice. The original AE1 might be one of the most beautiful cameras ever made.
Anonymous 01/21/25(Tue)15:39:31 No.4400895
>>4400848
>>4400838
if any of my electronic film cameras break I can just buy a new body for under $100. imo the only negative about these electronic cameras are that the shutter is loud as shit and manually setting dials is more fun, but I shoot in A mode like 99% of the time anyway so its not like I am interacting with more than 1 dial often anyway
Anonymous 01/21/25(Tue)15:43:02 No.4400898
>>4400886
I have flipped about 2 dozen of said cameras and never had any issues with the AE-1s until recently when I got one with bad electronics that will only complete the shutter cycle when I press the battery indicator, but I got it with a bunch of lenses so it wasn't a loss. The programs and the A1s I've experienced more problems with, most notably the squeak, but yes, they are excellent cameras as they have all that is needed for someone that is camera shy or the more advanced user that wants to take control of the settings. They are ergonomic and great to learn with. I've had nowhere near as much luck with other brands. The Minolta X700 deserves an honorable mention although I know that certain production numbers used bad capacitors that need to be changed, but I have yet to come across that issue.
Anonymous 01/21/25(Tue)15:47:22 No.4400901
>>4400898
>The programs and the A1s I've experienced more problems with, most notably the squeak
The squeak is caused by a little sprocket in the shutter mechanism that needs to be lubricated. They will all get it eventually if left for long enough as that part of the camera is the same across all A series models, but it's like a 2 minute job to re-lubricate them. The lubricant, depending on which one you use, should last ages on them, as there are AE1's that have never had it done and they still dont get it.
Anonymous 01/21/25(Tue)16:08:31 No.4400905
P1010750-3
>>4400895
I'm glad that works for you Anon.
I guess it's a matter of opinion, but for me personally I try to spend my money on things that I can plausibly still use in 30 years. I've always just tried to use things as long as possible. I've seen too many cases of people spending money they don't have to buy something that breaks a year later, and even if that chance is small, I don't want to take it.
I also think that it's a nice concept to build familiarity with the tool you use over a long period of time.

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Anonymous 01/21/25(Tue)16:10:33 No.4400907
>>4400905
all of my cameras cost me less than yours, even if I need to replace them more than once. plus they have nice features like AE mode or bracketing or auto focus
Anonymous 01/21/25(Tue)16:28:58 No.4400920
P1100394
>>4400907
Well I hope that your electronic cameras last long Anon, genuinely.
I don't use those features, with the exception of autofocus on my digital cameras so I don't feel the need to have those on my analog cameras.
My main argument against electronic film cameras isn't really against cheap point and shoots or late 90s/early 2000s DLSRs, but against the overpriced models like the Contax T2 or the Yashica T4, but also electronic rangefinders such as the Leica M5/M6/M7, I feel it's ridiculous to pay so much for a camera which if the electronic components fail is unlikely to be repairable.

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Anonymous 01/21/25(Tue)16:35:52 No.4400921
>>4400920
I have a pentax 645, rebel 2000 and new sureshot so basically the cheapest of the cheap
Anonymous 01/21/25(Tue)16:43:12 No.4400928
Delta3200 (3)
>>4400921
Honestly they look pretty nice, I hope you get many good photos with them.

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